We left Kununurra and headed North to the turn off onto the Gibb River Road. This road will be sealed in the next few years but right now it still remains a challenge as the creek crossings tend to cut gutters into the ground, the corrugations can be bone jarring and the stones in places extremely sharp causing punctures. The distances between cattle stations are not very long but the distance to any serious assistance is days away. There is no phone or radio reception so we rely on passing traffic or Sat Phone for communications. It is also very dusty but still an awesome adventure. If we are very lucky they might have graded parts of it after they repaired the damage caused by the wet season.
The drive into El Questro is sealed to the turn off and then 16km of gravel which is not bad, There are a few creek crossing with the final one at the gate to the resort area. Set up camp and then had a swim in the creek running through the back of the camping area. That evening there was live music and we enjoyed a cold beer in the late evening heat. The camping area is very civilised with a cafe, bar and usually a restaurant but due to covid nobody can get any staff. The same theme everywhere we go. Lots of these jobs are usually covered by backpackers making their way around Aus.
Day two, Elaines Birthday. Up early, brekkie and then off to El Questro Gorge. There was a long dirt track with a few small creek crossings and then one long deep water crossing. Both Pete and I chose to fit our car bras to prevent the water from racing through the radiator and turning the cooling fan into a propeller. When that happens they can bend and damage the fins on the radiator. The water was around 800 mm deep but one section which was very sandy got somewhat deeper but only momentarily. All safe out the other side with the return trip still to be done.
We reached the car park and headed out in the cool morning air. That was one hell of a walk. It is apparently a 7.4 km return. Well with all the rock climbing and scrambling over boulders etc it felt like 20. The gorge was filled with green ferns and palms. The water was crystal clear and tumbling down mini waterfalls. We had to wade up to our chests holding our backpacks above to continue on the second half of the hike. We eventually reached the end and the stunning deep cold pool and waterfall. After spending around 40 minutes at the pool we headed back. Our legs were already wobbly so it felt twice as difficult climbing down the obstacles. All in all a great strenuous day out. Got back and collapsed in our van and ran the aircon, a luxury we won’t have for much longer.
Day three was more of a recovery day than anything else. We were aching everywhere so we had a slow start. Headed off to Zebadee Hot Springs for a couple of hours. The hot water comes out of a fault line in the side of the mountain and permanently runs down the gorge forming small pools around the many palm trees and so of course it looks like an oasis surrounded by high red cliffs. Had to plunge into all the little pools, absolutely stunning. We then head out to the jetty which is about a 10km drive on dirt roads. No crocs to be seen. Back home for a Nanna Nap. At 4pm we packed up a small picnic and headed to the lookout for the sunset overlooking the river. Again we had a few creek crossings and a lot of bull dust on the tracks. An incredibly steep track to get there. Had to use low range or the car wouldn’t have gotten up the incline. Lovely outlook and nice sunset. On our return we could hardly see where we were going as there was absolutely no air movement to settle the dust floating in the air created by the cars ahead of us. Eventually got back and had an early night.
Day four and we made an early start to go to Emma Gorge. This walk starts at Emma Gorge Resort and heads up stream. Again a good solid walk which took us a few hours including all the swimming in the end. These walks are certainly not for the faint hearted. It is a 3.4km return walk, boulder hop. The first pool we came to was turquoise pool which was full of fish but we pushed on for the grand prize and the main pool and water fall. Just have to look at the pics and video when I eventually post some vids. Probably the best swimming spot that we have ever been to along the Gibb River Road.
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